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| CANOEING |
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| RAFTING |
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| SELF GUIDED |
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| CONTACT |
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NAHANNI
WILDERNESS
ADVENTURE LTD
969A Lawrence Grassi Ridge
Canmore, Alberta
Canada T1W 3C3
1-888-897-5223
PHONE
1-403-678-3374
FAX
1-403-609-2042
e-mail
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Going Against The Flow |
Start/Finish: Lindberg Landing to
Lindberg Landing, South Nahanni and Liard Rivers
Length: 10 days
Distance: 200 km
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September 6 - 15, 2008
Day 1 - 7:10 PM - September 6/08
After years of waiting - I pushed off from Lindberg Landing and pointed my canoe Going Against the Flow up the big Liard River. The sun was making colours through an anvil shaped cumulous cloud over the Nahanni Range. I was elated to be under way although I was setting out later than originally planned. The end of season cleanup of my rafting/canoeing business always takes longer than I expect it will.
Equipment repairs and cleaning was now done, and time reflecting with the river guides on how the season went was over, and a few odd jobs were done for Edwin and Sue. All reasonable delays I told myself as I poled along the muddy south bank of the Liard River.
8:15PM - I stopped in at Blackstone Territorial Park to say so long to summer managers Burton and Pauline, a young couple who were originally from Nahanni Butte. Their season was over and they were loading a boat for a few days alone at the family's Swan Point cabins. The Blackstone River was just ahead - I poled through its dark waters, then taking my paddle I ferried out to a mid-river sand bar for the night.
I was hunting for firewood as the sun slid beneath the clouds next to the bell shaped Nahanni Butte.
Day 2 - September 7/08
8:15AM A fog bank drifted on the river as I was cooking breakfast and packing up camp. The drone of the Blackstone Park's diesel generator hummed in the back ground as some ducks quacked their way past my island.
AM - I am still in the learning stages with poling. It is fascinating how effective it can be against a modest flow. I worked all morning along this line of exposed sand in the middle of the river. While eating my first of many bagels packed for the trip I watch a wood bison drop out of the shady forest and swim out into the river. Without losing ground in the current he made his way to the tip of my island from where I watched.
I pushed Flow out into the water with plans to give the bison more space on this tiny tip of sand. It was all I could do to snap a few pictures as the bison galloped past me with water spraying off his shaggy head and main. He stopped when the distance between us reached his comfort zone. Such a regal beast I thought to myself. Turning to the canoe, I realized Flow had been caught by the current and breeze and was already well off shore and out of reach. It was hat off, glasses off and camera down on top, in the water and swimming in a front crawl, I prayed the wind would stop long enough for me to reach the trailing painter.
The one worry I told Wendy, my wife, with going solo was having the canoe get away from me. I hope I have learned a lesson.
PM - I cooked supper in the dark after a long day on the river. It was a good day in Poling Class 101.
Flow, my hand picked Clipper Tripper with wood trim, made her virgin cruise during the last 2 weeks of August. I paddled solo in her on this 375 km canoe trip from the top of the park. Flow's fast lines enabled me to stay ahead of the group on most days. After just the first full day on this adventure I knew I had an exceptional craft for going against the flow as well.
The topographic map shows a distance of 15 km Đ my goal, Swan Point is still a few kilometers around the next bend. Karen, one of my river guides, left her stuffed bear with me when she flew back to Ontario for a few weeks. Somehow the bear found his way into my canoe barrel. We are not on talking terms yet but I have decided to put him to work. While I sleep Mr. Canada Bear is on duty with a headlamp for touring the site, a pen flare and bear spray in his hand. Lights out 10:30PM.
JOURNAL PAGE 2 >>>
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